I fell in love with Thailand just over 10 years ago when I was running photo trips for a student travel company in Southeast Asia. I’ve spent the two winters before the pandemic living in Chiang Mai and just returned for the first time after the pandemic. While the city has changed a bit (places have closed and new ones have opened), it’s still the city I love so much.
Chiang Mai is the smaller laid-back sister to chaotic madness of Bangkok. It has a population of 200,000 and centers around the old city, which is lined by a moat and the crumbling remains of the wall from its 13th century heyday as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. It’s a foodie town filled with temples and a great base for day trips for waterfalls, trekking and elephants.
Outside of the old city walls, the eastern area along the Ping River is the commercial hub filled with markets. The western part is the trendy, hip area along Nimmanhaemin Road (known as Nimman) that’s popular with both the digital nomad community and Chinese tourists for the shopping, cool cafes and coworking spaces. Whether you’re here for two days or two months, this guide will answer ALL your questions.
Temples
There’s literally a temple on every corner in Chiang Mai. Please be sure to dress appropriately when visiting temples—cover your shoulders and knees; remove hats and shoes. Avoiding pointing your feet at anyone or the Buddha statues because it is considered disrespectful. I’ve marked my favorite photogenic temples with asterisks! The famous temples charge 20-30 baht for entry, and the smaller ones are usually free. It’s often free if you go early or late.
Temples Inside the City Gates
- **Wat Phan Tao – This teak temple is one of my favorites and recently just opened about being renovated.
- Wat Pra Singh – This is one of the most popular and crowded in town. It’s famous for Lion Buddha Image and golden chedis (a mound-like structure containing relics) with elephants.
- Wat Chedi Luang – This is the second most popular and one of tallest structures in town. The brick chedi ruins dates back to 1441 and features a few remaining elephant statues.
- **Wat Chiang Man – This is the oldest in town and known for elephant chedi from 1297. It’s one of the best for photography.
- **Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang (Wat Hua Khuang) – This small and slightly hidden temple is down a small road near north gate of the city. It’s also stunning for photographs.
Temples Outside the City Gates
- Wat Lok Molee – This temple is one of one of city’s older temples. It’s just outside of the north gate to the old city. It’s popular during the lantern festival and always has cool decorations.
- Wat Sri Suphan – The silver temple is just south of city walls. It’s stunning except for the fact that women can’t go inside the main temple.
- **Wat Buppharam and Wat Mahawan – These are two of the three stunningly beautiful Burmese temples near Tha Phae Gate.
Temples in Driving Distance
- Wat Doi Suthep – This is the most important temple in Chiang Mai and home to a Buddha relic. It’s located on top of a mountain just outside of town. It’s accessible by songthaew from the city or by foot via the Monk’s Trail.
- Wat Pha Lat – This is a small monk temple on the way to Doi Suthep. It’s accessible by car and foot.
- Wat Umong – This cave temple is couple kilometers out of city and one of the most unique ones.
- Wat Phra That Doi Kham – You can’t miss this big white buddha temple on hilltop.
- Wat Suan Dok – This temple is located in the Nimman area and known for the photogenic white stupas/chedis. They offer one-day and multi-day mediation retreats that I totally recommend and regular monk chats!
Day Trips & Activities
Grand Canyon – This former limestone quarry carved out of red clay soil is a stunning place to relax and swim. It’s broken into three separate sections and two appear to be commercial – one waterpark/wake park on the far left of the canyon and a smaller water park in the center. Both have inflatable obstacle courses, cliff jumping and bamboo rafts for floating. Be careful with cliff jumping as deaths have been reported. Entry 300-150 baht depending on which park you visit.
Sticky Waterfall (Bua Thong) – This waterfall is one of my favorites and never crowded! It’s a multi-tiered waterfall made of limestone and mineral deposits. The rocks are easy to walk on without slipping, hence, the name “sticky waterfalls.” It’s fed by a natural spring that’s connected to the parking lot by a path. There’s a series of ropes and wooden railings, a recent addition this year to assist with climbing. Entry is currently free. It a 90-minute drive from town so a tour, motorbike or Grab (the Asian version of Uber) is your best option.
Monk’s Trail – This hiking trail leads up to the city’s most famous temple – Doi Suthep and passes a smaller temple Wat Pha Lat. The first portion of the trail is easy but after the first temple, it gets steep. You can take a songthaew down after the end of the hike. Depending on your fitness level, it can take roughly 90 minutes one-way.
Meditation Retreat – Wat Suan Dok offers weekly meditation retreats ranging from a one-day retreat on Monday and Fridays; weekly two-day retreats Tuesday to Wednesday and monthly four-day retreats. The one-day retreats are free but donations are appreciated. Two-day retreats are 800 baht. For more information, visit monkchat.net or stop by the monk chat office at the temple. (I personally LOVED the one-day retreat!)
Monk Chat – Wat Suan Dok offer chats on weekdays from 5-7 p.m. and Wat Chedi Luang in the old city offers it weekdays from 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Both are organized by Wat Suan Dok’s Buddhist university, monkchat.net.
Elephant Sanctuaries – While there’s no shortage of elephant activities around Chiang Mai, be mindful to only book with ethical companies that don’t allow riding. Most day trips will include walks (not riding), feeding and bathing them. Some friends just booked a tour with Elephant Nature Park and raved about it.
Cooking Classes – Chiang Mai is a total foodie town so it’s a great place for a cooking class. My friend’s rave about the classes at Asia Scenic. They offer full and half day courses either in town or at their farm. (1,200-800 baht/$39-26 USD) I’ve also heard great things about Grandma’s Cooking School.
Doi Inthanon National Park– This national park is home to Thailand’s tallest peak at 8,415 feet! It’s also filled with hiking trails and waterfalls. It’s popular with cyclists as well. It’s located 70 kilometers from Chiang Mai, but there’s no public transport unfortunately. (I usually hire a Grab driver for the day and split it with friends for day trips.)
Where to Eat
Under 100 Baht / $3 USD
- Moo Ping Khun Por – This breakfast and lunch spot in Nimman serves up one of my favorite Thai dishes — moo ping (grilled pork usually in coconut milk) and khao niew (sticky rice). They also have chicken as well. This was a post-pandemic discovery that I’m obsessed with. 27 Nimmana Haeminda Rd Lane 11.
- Ming Kwan Vegetarian Restaurant – The vegan khao soi might just be my favorite khao soi in town (and I’m not vegan!)! This spot is budget friendly and super tasty. I also recommend the veggie Northern Thai sausage! 98 Rachadamnoen Rd Soi 4 (Near Wat Phra Sing)
- Mall Food Courts – All malls in Thailand have cheap (and super tasty) food courts with local stalls serving fresh food. The basement level of the Maya Mall and Central Festival are two good ones. The 4th floor of Central Festival is nice as well. I usually eat a meal for 50-60 baht ($2 USD). The food courts haven’t been as great since COVID and have less stalls than before.
- Khao Tom Baht Diao – This is the cheapest spot in town for both food and beer with the most convenient hours. Portions are small, but it’s so cheap it doesn’t matter so just order a second dish. It’s open from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily so it’s good any time of day!
- Ploen Ruedee Night Market – This hip food truck market is located right beside the sprawling night market. It’s filled with tons of options for eating and small shops. There’s usually live music and cold beer readily available. 28/3-4 Changklan Rd.
- Chang Phueak (North Gate) Market – Every night there’s a sprawling local food market located outside the walls of the old city across from the north gate. It winds down around 9 p.m. Highlights are the pork rice lady who wears a cowboy hat (she was on Anthony Bourdain) and the sukiyaki spot that’s just over a few stalls from her. I also love the roti pancake guy by the stoplight who’s across from the women selling kanom krok, coconut pancake balls.
Over 100 baht/$3 USD
- Good Souls Kitchen – This vegan spot is my go-to breakfast spot. (I’m far from vegan but love their fruit bowl and homemade coconut yogurt and granola.) Their dinner options and mains are also delicious. I dream of this place when I’m not in Thailand. 52/2 Singharat Rd.
- Khao Soy Maesai (Michelin-Guide listed) – This local spot serves up the best khao soi (northern Thai soup curry) in town. It’s only open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Go late in the afternoon or there will be a long line. I recommend the chicken and get extra pickled veggies to add in! 29, 1 Ratchaphuek Alley
- Khao Soi Nimman (Michelin-Guide listed)– This is my next favorite khao soi spot in town. It’s open much later than the others. The northern Thai sausage is the best and spiciest option, but the fried pork is also good. 22 Nimmana Haeminda Rd Lane 7.
- Huen Muan Jai (Michelin-Guide listed) – Located diagonally from Khao Soy Maesai, this is another popular resturant specializing in Northern Thai food. I recommend their sampler platter and the hung lay curry with pork. 24 Ratchaphuek Alley.
- Cherng Doi Roast Chicken (Michelin-Guide listed) – There will be a line at this hole-in-the-wall spot. The roast chicken with tamarind sauce is amazing! The menu offers a lot of other chicken dishes along with creative somtam (green papaya salad) options. 2/8 Suk Kasame Rd.
- The Salad Concept – If you’re missing your veggies or are sick, this is the best spot in town. There’s a massive selection of build-your-own salads and wraps. The portions are huge and range from 100-150 baht/$4-5 USD for a main. There’s two locations.
- Free Bird Café – This vegan spot has delicious coconut and banana pancakes. All proceeds go to the owner’s charity for migrant workers. There’s a zero waste store and second-hand shop inside. They host a weekly women’s nomad lunch on Wednesdays and other events.
- SS1254372Cafe (Gallery Seecape) – This café is adorable and has the best French toast I’ve ever had in my life. The only negative side is that it’s full of people posing for Instagram photos which distracts from the ambiance. (Literally, nine girls – three different groups – did this during my lunch!) The café is part of an art gallery. 22/1 Nimmanhein Rd. Soi 17
Where to Sleep
For a few nights…
Leaf Hostel is a good central location in the Nimman area. (250 baht/ $8 USD for a dorm bed.) If you’re looking for a really nice hotel in Nimman, I recommend Akyra Manor (excellent rooftop bar with cool infinity pool) and Hotel YaYee (also a great rooftop bar).
For a few months….
There’s no shortage of monthly rentals in town. The best ones book out in advance. I’ve included several locations to show the wide variety of options. I prefer to pay $300-400/month personally depending on if I get a studio or a one-bedroom. Electric and water is usually not included. (I’ve never paid more than $30/month total for both before 2019 but now, prices are almost double.) A one-month deposit is also required.
- Huay Kaew Residence – This is the most budget friendly and centrally located spot in town for both the old city and Nimman. The good news: there’s a pool and the complex is huge so there’s always availability. The bad news: the beds are literally like sleeping on a wooden board. Studios start around 3,500 baht/$117 USD per month for 24 square meters.
- Mirror Chiang Mai – These newly built apartments are family-owned and very posh with both one and two bedroom units ranging from $540-840 USD/month. The same company owns PT Residences next door, which offers clean but dated apartments starting at $300/month. Weekly cleanings are included.
- Liv@Nimman – This modern condo building is swanky and includes a stunning pool. It’s located in the heart of Nimman near Maya Mall. One bedrooms start at $672/month.
- Green Hill Place – This modern apartment building has two NICE pools and a gym. It’s located by Maya Mall. One bedrooms start at 10,000 baht/$336 USD.
Live Music & Free Events
There’s no shortage of live music spots and open mic nights in town. My two favorite live music spots are North Gate Jazz Co-op (open mic night is Tuesdays) and Boy Blues Bar in the Night Bazaar.
One Nimman – This huge shopping complex offers free events including salsa classes on Sunday nights, yoga (Tues/Thurs.) and swing dance lessons on Saturday nights. Check timings before visiting as this can change often.
Jing Jai Farmer’s Market – This weekly farmer’s market is a must-visit! Aside from fresh produce, there’s a whole section of food stalls ranging from freshly baked banana bread to dumplings. The vendors are also really unique artists and not touristy at all. Open every Saturday and Sunday from roughly 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Coworking Spaces
There’s new coworking spaces opening all the time, and it’s best to choose a place based on where you live. Cafes are always a great backup option. I’ve always gone to Punspace, which has only two locations in town because their Nimman branch closed during the pandemic. (Wiang Kaew is the most social of their three branches.) CAMP is a 24-hour café in Maya Mall that many people like to work from. Coco Kala is the one of the newest additions that literally just opened at the start of the pandemic but is temporarily closed! It’s a stunning co-living and coworking space with a pool. Other options include Hub53 (offers unlimited and hourly plans). A monthly membership runs around $100-130 USD depending on the space, but there’s been some post-COVID discount pricing. I’m sure how long that will continue but keep that in mind. (I rented a bigger apartment after the pandemic so just worked from home because that worked best for me.)
Gyms
These gyms are located around the Nimman area and I’ve tried them all! (I am picky about gyms when it comes to equipment and air conditioning.)
- Maxx Fitness – This is the nicest gym in the Nimman area and the priciest. It’s located in the Maya Mall and has excellent air circulation and climate control. The equipment is all new and classes are offered. I talked them out of their joining fees and only paid the monthly membership fee of 2,999/baht ($99 USD).
- Jett Fitness – When this gym opened in February 2020, it’ll be the biggest competitor for Maxx. It’s located in the One Nimman shopping complex. It’s actually a fairly small and awkward space so I decided to stick to Maxx Fitness instead.
- Playground Innovative Training Club (Temporarily Closed) – This gym was brand new in late 2019 and located off a side street. The equipment is all really nice, but the space is very small. The main floor area is used for classes in the morning and night so it can only be used from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. The air flow is awful since they don’t turn on the air conditioning until the afternoons some days and open the windows instead. The small size and lack of air flow is why I didn’t join this gym long-term. Their “opening special offer” is a month with unlimited classes for 2,400 baht/ $80 USD. Punna Place, 30 Nimmanahaeminda Road
- Harris Fitness Center – This is one of the most budget options in town located in the Lotus Hotel. It’s a cramped space with older equipment but lots of options. Classes are also included for free. The staff is really friendly. It doesn’t have great air flow or a/c. Rates are 1,250 baht/month ($42 USD) and 600 baht weekly ($20). 21 Huaykaew Rd
- Gold Hillside Gym & Fitness – (1,100 baht/$37 USD month) This gym is located in the bottom of Hillside Condo 3. It’s a nice-sized space but a bit dated. It’s got good air flow but just didn’t have the equipment I wanted. 25 Huaykaew Rd.
- Chiang Mai Muay Thai – I love this open-air Muay Thai gym in the old city. There are five classes a day. Prices start at 390 baht/class but are cheaper if you buy packages. The 8 a.m. class is always the most chill. 76 Wiang Kaew Rd.
Best Muay Thai Gyms in Chiang Mai
I’ve been trying out three different Muay Thai gyms and found a good routine splitting between two of them for training. Bear Fight Club Chiang Mai in the old city is the best. Classes are roughly 2.5 hours and 300 baht. It’s the most intense and also the most crowded, which is intimidating if you’re new. Another favorite is Heavy Hit Boxing Gym located southeast of the city. This gym is only pad work and by appointment only (1.5 hours, 300 baht) so it feels like more one-on-one training. There’s never more than a handful of people here. I feel like there’s more individual instruction here to help me improve my form and that combined with Bear Fight Club is a great combination. I’d recommend Heavy Hit first if you’re new to Muay Thai. The other option I’ve tired is Chiang Mai Muay Thai, which has the most frequent class times. Classes are shorter (1.5 hours) for 390 baht. It’s located in the old city and can also get slammed with people.
Shopping & Markets
- Chiang Mai Night Bazaar – This is the main night market in town and runs every night from 6 -11:30 p.m. It’s a good place for food, souvenirs, clothing, luggage, etc. Intersection of Chang Khlan Road and Loi Khro Road.
- Talat Warorot – This is where all the locals go to shop – a sprawling complex with food, cheap (not quality) suitcases, clothes, etc. Cnr Th Chang Moi & Th Praisani
- Sunday Walking Street – This is a haven for street food and souvenirs, but it’s so crowded you feel like you’re at a music festival smashed against the person in front of you. Rachadamnoen Rd.
- Ploen Ruedee Night Market – This food truck market is located near/in the night bazaar. It’s got a wide variety of food options, alcohol, live music and clothing vendors. It’s my favorite spot in the night bazaar. 28/3-4 Changklan Rd
Shopping Malls
The largest mall in town is Central Festival, which is outside the city center but accessible by the RTC buses and a series of free shuttles. Maya Mall in Nimman and Central Chiang Mai Airport, largest mall in Northern Thailand.. All three have movie theaters and pharmacies – the British chains Boots and Watsons along with a Pharmacare Plus (usually the cheapest). From a shopping standpoint, there’s every chain from H&M to Zara to Uniqlo in at least one of these malls. Each mall has a food court with cheap and tasty eats (all homecooked Thai food), which I always frequent. Maya and Central Festival have a Daiso, the Japanese dollar store which is the most useful store on the planet.
Need a haircut?
While there’s plenty of places around to get a haircut, I like New York New York in Nimman. It’s an Aveda salon, and they do a good job. (I’ve had so many terrible haircuts abroad that I’m really picky about places since I have short hair!) Prices range from 550-850 baht ($18-28 USD) for a wash and cut.
Transport & Logistics
When to Go
The best time to visit Chiang Mai is in the dry, cooler months from November to February. Temperatures are in the 70s/80s with lows in 60s. Beware of the burning season when the fields in the north are burned and the smoke heavily pollutes the city to unsafe air quality levels, which is normally February and March. (Download the free Air Visual app to check air quality levels!) It can start as early as late December. April and May are steaming hot. The monsoon rains arrive in June but peak in August/September.
Transport
The easiest way to get to Chiang Mai is to fly! International flight options are expanding with direct routes to Singapore on Scoot Airways (love this airline!) and Hong Kong via Cathy Pacific. There’s a train to Bangkok that takes roughly 12 hours and is always late. (I love the sleeper car. A bottom bunk is roughly $50.) Buses are the cheapest ($20ish) and take about 10 hours from Bangkok. Thai Smile is my favorite budget airline and offers flights around $50 USD one-way from Bangkok with free checked luggage included!
Local Transport
The local transport in Chiang Mai revolves around a system of songthaews—pickup trucks with two benches in the back—that are constantly on the prowl for business. There’s a few different color truck lines (yellow, red, etc.) but the red ones will take you just about anywhere in the city for 30 baht ($1). I use these a lot and find it’s best to tell the driver a large landmark near where I want to go like Maya Mall or Tha Phae Gate.
The rideshare app Grab is the next best option. The company is partially owned by Uber and operates the same way and also included food delivery options in the app. There’s also an option to get a bike taxi instead of a car, which is cheaper. Helmets are provided.
Tuk tuks are a total tourist trap and outrageously expensive. Avoid them. India is the only place they are a good deal.
Motorbike Rentals
Motorbikes can be rented just about anywhere in town for roughly 200 baht/day ($6.60 USD). There’s several places along Huay Kaew Road. SAFETY ALERT: If you don’t have a Thai license or an international motorcycle license, most travel insurance companies will NOT cover you if there’s an accident. The police also set up regular check points around the city and fines are 500 baht ($16.50 USD) if you don’t have a proper license.
SIM Cards
The main carriers are AIS, DTAC and TrueMove. I’ve always used AIS so that’s my preference since coverage is good everywhere I’ve been in the country. You have to show your passport to get a SIM card, which is pretty common in most countries. It’s always more expensive to buy it at the airport. When I arrived in Thailand, I bought a 30-day plan with 6 GB from AIS in airport for $19 USD. When I topped it up at the AIS in Maya Mall, they offered me a new sim card with a better plan with unlimited data for $8.28 USD. You can top up at machines at 7Elevens or at the retail stores for all the main carriers.
Lantern Festival
One of the big festivals in Chiang Mai is the Yee Peng (also spelled Yi Peng) Festival that’s held during the full moon of the twelfth lunar month every year (usually in November). This festival of lights is known as the lantern festival and also coincides with Loy Krathong. The best locations for the festival are the Three Kings Monument, Ping River to launch the krathongs (small floats made from banana leaves and flowers) and the bridge over the Ping River for launching the lanterns. Many temples like Wat Phantao will have ceremonies.
Medical Care
The medical care in Thailand’s private hospitals is FANTASTIC, efficient and affordable. In Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai RAM near the old city and Bangkok Hospital Chiang Mai near Central Festival mall are the two main hospitals. I’ve been to the later a bunch in Chiang Mai and the facilities are really nice. (I get all of my routine annual health checks done in Thailand every year. Check out this post for more details on health care in Thailand!)
Visa Extensions
The Chiang Mai Immigration Office is located near the airport. (Address: 71 ถนนสนามบิน Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200) Hours are 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. If you have a 30- or 60-day visa, you can extend it for an additional 30 days here.
When you arrive, the application forms will be in trays outside the door. For 30-day visa extensions, you’ll need bring following documents with you: a copy of your passport photo page, a copy of your entry stamp in your passport, a copy of both sides of your entry card, a passport-sized photo and the correct application form (TM.7 form provided at the entrance). If you forget copies or the photo, the gas station across the street has a booth set up to help. The cost for a 30-day extension is 1,900 baht cash. (Don’t worry – they give change if you don’t have exact change!)
When you go inside, you’ll hand your forms to the main counter. They will give you a ticket with a number and barcode then you’ll be called up to the counter (Counter 2 for extensions). Your number shows up on a screen. They will take your picture and get any other information they need. They’ll call your name a few minutes later to give you your passport with a blue receipt, which you need to show when you exit the country.
I arrived in Thailand and got the normal 30-day visa-on-arrival stamp and extended it. Then, I left the country (flew to Singapore) then got a new 30-day stamp and extended that. The first time I applied for the 30-day extension, it only took 20 minutes. The second time it took an hour because I went the day after a holiday. Please check their website for holiday closings.
[UPDATE: A new form (STM2) has been added for visa extensions as of the second week of January 2020. It’s mostly in Thai, reaffirms the penalty for overstaying your visa and asks for the same information as the TM.7 form. This is causing a significant delays so go early and allow extra time. Go a few days before your visa expires! There are staff helping with this form. You are given a number to wait which they call over the speakers (It doesn’t show up on the screen!) and then, the staff will check your forms. Then, you get the second number with the barcode I mentioned above to go through the initial process I described. This second number is the only one that shows up on the screen! I can’t offer any 2023 updates since I didn’t need to renew my visa this time.]
