I went to Iceland to visit my old friend James McDaniel, an expat who’s been living in Iceland for over three years. We worked together in Birmingham, Alabama for a few years, and both quit our jobs to work in Asia in 2012. In August, we road tripped through Southern Iceland together, and I picked his brain for Iceland tips to share with you!
James McDaniel’s favorite place in Iceland is Brúarfoss, a hidden waterfall that’s not visible from the road.
Name: James McDaniel
Age: 29
Hometown: Birmingham, Alabama
Country Count: 18
1. How did you start traveling? Tell us how you ended up in Iceland.
My first big independent trip was to study Mandarin Chinese in the People’s Republic of China when I was about 17. I’d say growing up my parents always inspired a deep sense of curiosity of other places and cultures in me and my brothers. Having a network of supportive family and friends definitely can be encouraging but also makes you long for home when you’re on the road. Oddly enough, I ended up in Iceland after working in China for a summer back in 2012. Let’s just say I stumbled upon the island mostly by accident while taking the long way back to my home state of Alabama, fell in love and ended up moving to Reykjavik soon after.
2. What are your favorite places to visit in Iceland? Share one of your favorite Iceland memories.
One of my favorite places to visit is the rather off-the-beaten-trail waterfall of Brúarfoss. It’s glacial cerulean blue waters are captivating any time of year. One of my favorite Icelandic memories though was when my husband took me to a surprise concert by one of my favorite Icelandic singers Ólöf Arnalds. It was a small concert of about 30 people held in the rare books room at the National Archives in Reykjavik, so intimate and romantic. For a country as small as Iceland with such a little population, it’s amazing how many world class musicians, artists and athletes they produce.
Must see places in Iceland: the glacial lagoon (Jökulsárlón) and Stykkishólmur in Snæfellsnes. I’m impartial to this little seaside town [Stykkishólmur] in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula as I spent my honeymoon there in 2013. More than lovely.
3. When is the best time to visit Iceland?
Every time has something different. Most people tend to prefer summer, but I have a bit of morbid sensibility that has me drawn to that arctic darkness of late winter, howling winds and northern lights. It can be a bit spooky, but I kinda like that.
4. Share a few tips about how to cut cost on traveling in Iceland.
Iceland is one of the most expensive countries to visit in the world. Seriously. After living here for three years now, when I leave, everything feels less expensive than here in Iceland. I’d say take some time to look up places to eat and stay. Unfortunately, as tourism has increased so has the inevitable tourist trap or two. Don’t be surprised if a roadside dive is charging US $20+ for a burger. If you’re on a tight budget, stick to buying food at the grocery store.
Other cost saving tips: camp, don’t drink [beer is $9 in a bar!], bring some snacks, attend some anarchist ‘food not bombs’ meet ups for some free food and deep conversation.
James and I stopped at Dyrholaey near Vik for photos and to see puffins our road trip through the Southern part of Iceland.
5. What’s the best place to see puffins/horses/sheep, etc.?
Puffins are seasonal [April-Sept.] and nest at certain places on the coast like in the cliffs in the south near Vík. Horses and sheep are just about everywhere. In fact, if you are driving, be especially careful to keep an eye out for sheep. They may stray onto the road. All the sheep in Iceland are free range, and though, they are usually fenced off from the roads, they have the right of way.
6. What are three things everyone should pack for Iceland?
Rain pants, raincoat, waterproof boots. That’s just to say, rough weather is a possibility, but it doesn’t have to ruin your trip if you stay dry!
7. What is the best form of transport to get around Iceland?
Rent a car. You can take a few public buses to some places, but service is limited and mostly runs just twice a day outside of the capital area. There are no trains, but there is a domestic airline that flies to different parts of Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands, but it’s prohibitively expensive for most travelers.
James works at a greenhouse near Selfoss, Iceland that specializes in culinary herbs and a variety of flowers.
8. What advice would you have for aspiring travelers regardless of their destination? Any tips for overcoming fear?
Don’t be a tourist. Yes, you’re on holiday. You’re on vacation and should be having fun, but please try to learn something about where you’re going and what shaped the land, people and culture. For example, take a minute to read up on Iceland’s rather rough and grim history as a Danish colony and their struggle for independence. Look up a bit of the woman’s rights and LGBTQI+ movement here and how Iceland has always pushed farther ahead of any other country to be more inclusive. But, at the same time, maybe read up on some of the current issues facing the people living and trying to live on the island like the Iraqi refugee hunger strikes and Syrian asylum seeker deportations. Any place that presents itself as a utopia is trying to sell you something, dig a little deeper, see what flaws and strengths connect us as humans, don’t be afraid to ask tough questions.
9. Can you share any safety tips or things to avoid in Iceland?
Don’t wander into the wilderness; it could kill you. Every year, we lose tourists to the harsh natural environment that makes this place so special. Take weather warnings and road conditions seriously. Icelanders are tough as nails, so if cars are turning back at an icy road, don’t forge ahead. Be prepared for rapid and drastic changes in weather, always have some extra layers as even in the summer you might get a sudden cold wind down from the arctic.
10. What’s your next adventure?
Well, as I write this I’m finally making it over to visit Bristol, UK. Lovely and incredibly green. More longterm, a friend and I are cooking up a trip north to Greenland.
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COMING UP:
A Photo Guide to Iceland: Where to Go & Budget Tips
Next week, I start a two-part series on Iceland. The first part will focus on a photo tour of Iceland and the best places to visit. The second part will dive into budget tips for traveling in Iceland including a detailed breakdown of my trip expenses!
