Classic Marfa: My favorite town in Texas
I have never been anywhere quite like Marfa.
The quirky, remote West Texas town is one of my favorite places to photograph. (Add it to your bucket list now!) The former railroad town has a population of just under 2,000 people and is a mecca for art. Marfa appeared on the art scene when famed minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to town from New York City in search of a location to permanently install his art. Now, a variety of galleries are scattered across the one-stoplight town along with trendy dive bars and delicious food trucks.
Downtown Marfa, Texas
Thanks to Judd, many people come to Marfa for the art and the hype. The photographic quirkiness of the town is what attracted me to visit. Who could resist the charm of storefronts from the 1800’s restored with a sleek modern touch only a block away from the bustling NAPA Auto Parts? On both of my visits, I drove around everyday at sunrise and sunset looking for things to photograph. I’ve always been drawn to the fringes of life – crumbling colonial towns in Latin America or Buddhist ruins in Asia. In Marfa, I’m drawn to the vintage cars, the former military based Judd turned in a giant art gallery and the dilapidated hotel signs that now stand by vacant lots on the edge of town. Marfa is thriving in a world where small towns struggle to survive.
Marfa does have a bit of third-world charm that adds a bit of adventure: The shops and restaurants don’t always have set hours. They open and close as they please. Good luck finding a place to eat on a Sunday night. (Friday and Saturdays are the best days to visit Marfa.)
People always ask me for tips (where to go/stay/eat) in all the places I’ve been so I’ve started taking good notes and writing up short mini-guides to help! Here’s a quick photo guide to my favorite city in Texas:
1. Marfa Lights
One of the many attractions in Marfa is the mysterious Marfa Lights, which were first documented in 1883. The lights do exist. I’d seen them twice—balls of light that move, fade and twinkle on clear nights between Marfa and the Piasno Pass. A viewing station was built nine miles east of town on Highway 90.
An advertisement for the Marfa Lights outside the quirky Thunderbird Hotel.
2. El Cosmico
El Cosmico is a 21-acre campground with teepees, Mongolian yurts and vintage trailers for rent. They book out far in advance for accommodation. Beyoncé stayed here on her recent visit. I always bring my own tent and chose the self-camp option for $15/person. There’s tons of hammocks, free wifi and a large kitchen.
El Cosmico offers a wide range of unique accommodation including three teepees.
3. Marfa Prada
One of the most famous art installations known as the Marfa Prada is actually is 37 miles west of town. The land art project by artists Elmgreen & Dragset was built in 2005 in conjunction with the Ballroom Marfa gallery. It is a replica of a Prada store including shoes and bags donated by Muccia Prada and a door that doesn’t open. The first time I drove out to the building, it had been vandalized, which sadly happens often. On my second trip, the building was repaired and more photogenic. Sunset or sunrise is the best time to photograph the building. There’s no ambient light so avoid going after dark.
4. Food Shark
Food Shark has some of the best food in town. The Mediterranean-inspired food truck with the iconic orange door is open Thursday – Sunday from noon until 3 p.m. The slow-roast pulled pork and okra sandwich is my favorite. Food Shark also runs The Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, a popular weekend eatery packed with vintage TVs. If the inside is full, grab a table on the adjacent renovated school bus eating car to devour your grilled cheese. (Friday & Saturday 9:30 p.m. – 12:30 a.m.)
Food Shark runs two delicious eateries in Marfa. It’s a must for lunch!
5. Chinati Foundation
The Chinati Foundation, a contemporary art museum based on the work of Donald Judd, is located on a former military base. Admission is free to Judd’s untitled 15 works of concrete (pictured above) in a field along Highway 67. They offer several tour options: full collection (4 hours/$25 adults), selection tour (2 hours/$20) and a self-guided tour of Judd’s untilted works in mill aluminum ($10 adults).
6. Cobra Rock
On my first trip to Marfa, everyone suggested I visit Cobra Rock Boot Company run by Colt Miller and his partner, Logan Caldbeck. Miller started making boots ten years ago in Borden County near Lubbock, Texas after apprenticing with a cowboy boot maker. The majority of each shoe is stitched on Colt’s 1939 Singer sewing machine. They produce 10 pairs of boots each week, but the entire process takes about three weeks.
Cobra Rock Boot Company is one of my favorite stores to both photograph and visit in Marfa.
When to go:
- Most restaurants, galleries and shops are open on weekends. Almost everything is open on Saturdays, but Sunday nights are dead. Spring and fall are best for weather. It’s freezing at night from November to March and blazing hot in the summer during the day. Festivals weekends can be really crowded. See the list of events below.
Nearby Attractions:
- Be sure to head up to McDonald Observatory for their Saturday night Star Parties, which include outdoor constellation tours and telescope viewing. It’s usually cold, but the view is amazing.
- Hiking in Big Bend National Park is a must. The wide open desert and giant limestone canyons are incredible. A 4-wheel drive vehicle will make it easier to get to the remote parts of the park.
- Big Bend Brewery in nearby Alpine offers tours at 3 p.m. on Wednesday through Friday and on Saturday (1 p.m. & 3 p.m.) for $10. Includes samples of all beers and a really cool pint glass. Try Tejas lager – it’s my favorite!
Restaurants and Bars:
- Lost Horse Saloon – Local dive bar with fire pit and great taco trailer in parking lot. 306 E. San Antonio
- Marfa Burrito – Life-changing burritos. Open daily 6 a.m. – 2 p.m. 515 S. Highland St.
- Squeeze – My daily breakfast/lunch spot. Great waffles and soup. Tuesday to Sunday 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. 215 N Highland St.
- Jett’s Grill – A good Sunday night dinner option. Located in Hotel Paradiso. 207 North Highland Ave.
- Planet Marfa – A cute eclectic bar with a teepee in the center. Open seasonally on weekends. 200 S. Abbott St.
Festivals in Marfa:
- Chianti Weekend: Includes free tours, live music and a $500 fundraiser dinner that always sells out. Columbus Day Weekend (Saturday & Sunday); All galleries in town are open late the Friday before as part of the Made in Marfa event.
- Marfa Film Festival: Five-day film festival with outdoor screenings. (July 13-17, 2016)
- Marfa Lights Festival: Labor Day weekend at courthouse grounds. Features a parade and live music.
- Marfa Myths: Art/music event co-run by Ballroom Marfa and the Brooklyn-based record label Mexican Summer (March 10-13, 2016)
- Trans-Pecos Festival: A music and arts festival held at El Cosmico. (September 22-25, 2016)
- Via Big Bend Festival: Lineup of 50 bands playing in Alpine, Marathon and Fort Davis. (July 28-31, 2016)
For more information:
El Cosmico provides this great detailed map of Marfa and this extensive list of restaurants.
