A Photo Guide to Nicaragua

I kicked off 2016 with by visiting my 44th country – Nicaragua. It was the perfect place to defrost from winter, eat my weight in papaya, climb colonial church towers and hike volcanos. Nicaragua is shaking off decades of political turmoil and slowly emerging from obscurity onto the main travel circuit. It’s still much cheaper and undeveloped than neighboring Costa Rica. Fingers crossed that it continues to stay under the radar.

Here’s my list of the top five must-see sights in the country:

1. Ometepe

My favorite part of Nicaragua was Isla de Ometepe—a mystical island with twin volcano peaks in the middle of a fresh water lake. A good portion of the island is undeveloped with unpaved roads. It was a great place to hike, swim and relax in a hammock. It was completely different (and safer) than the rest of Nicaragua.

I stayed in one handmade cottages at Finca Mystica, an ecofriendly jungle lodge. The food, accommodation and location were amazing. (In ALL of my travels, this is in my top three for accommodation!) Nothings beats waking up to the sound of howler monkeys every morning!

Other island highlights include:

• Café Campestre, a great lunch spot in Balgue
• San Ramon Waterfall (pictured below), a good hike that leads to small, picturesque waterfall
  (Don’t rent a horse. It’s easier and less painful to hike. Trust me on this one.)
• Ojo de Agua, a natural spring pool fed by an underground river from the Maderas volcano
• Playa Santa Domingo, a beautiful 4km long black sand beach
• Hiking the Maderas (6-8 hours) and Concepción (10 hours) volcanos

The island is located in Lake Nicaragua, which is the rumored site of the proposed (and recently postponed) Nicaragua canal funded by a Chinese businessman. Transport: Ferries leave San Jorge regularly for Ometepe. Avoid the small ferries, which are sketchy and the bottom level floods. Opt for the larger three-level car ferries instead.

2. Granada

The colorful colonial streets of Granada are the most photogenic and best preserved in the country. Highlights include the Cathedral de Granada, the main icon of the city skyline, and Iglesia San Francisco, the oldest church in Central America that also houses a museum. Soy Nica is a great shop for locally made leather goods.  For an amazing view of the city, climb the tower of Iglesia de La Merced in the late afternoon. Where to eat: The best lunch spots are El Garaje (one of my favorite meals in Nicaragua with a weekly rotating menu) or The Garden Café, a popular spot with large courtyard.

3. Laguna de Apoyo

The giant crater lake is a short drive from Granada and is the clearest body of fresh water in the country. It was formed 23,000 years ago and was declared a nature reserve in 1991. There are a handful of accommodation options on the lake that offer kayaks and paddleboards. I highly recommend a sunrise kayak along the shoreline.

4. León

The highlight of León for me was the roof tour of the cathedral (Basílica de la Asunción), which is the largest cathedral in Central America. Despite offering an amazing view of the city and surrounding volcanos, the maze-like rooftop itself was stunning. Shoes are not allowed because the roof was recently painted bright white.

Another must-see is the Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián, one of the finest contemporary art museums in Central America. Two beautiful old homes are filled with the works of Latin American masters including Diego Rivera and Fernando Botero along with a few big names like Picasso and Chagall. The $3 entrance fee was a steal.

Where to eat in León: Be sure to stop for breakfast at Pan & Paz, grab an afternoon ice cream on a waffle cone (both are homemade) at Kiss Me and dinner at El Bodegon (my favorite restaurant in Nicaragua). It’s run by a Cuban chef and has a set 180 córdoba ($6) menu featuring giant quesadillas and Spanish tortillas.

5. Cerro Negro

Volcano boarding at Cerro Negro, a 728-meter active volcano, was on my bucket list. The volcano is named for the layer of volcanic rocks that cover its slopes. (The last eruptions was 1999.) Many tour companies like El Perezoso offer the day trip for $30 USD from León and provide boards (homemade sleds) and safety gear. It took a little less than an hour to hike to the top with my board strapped to my back and less than two minutes to come down! (It honestly was nowhere near as scary as I thought.) Go early to beat the crowds and party hostels who arrive around 9:30 a.m.